Pattern



Nov. 25, 1 930. H. H. SMITH v '1,783,004

PATTERN l Y Filed naar@ 2a. 192s zsnegts-"sneetf ,1

Nov. 25, 1930. H. H. SMITH 1,733,004

PATTERN Filed March 2a. 1929 2 sheets-sheet 2 I im Patented Nov. 25, 1930 A'piication mea Marchas, 192:9. sriainaasgsao.

Myinventionrelates to patterns, particul `larly apatter'n for use inmaking Womens Walsts, coats and the like.- The invention has "for its principal object pattern AWhich is j ifi {[5 Vmade to an individnalsT measurements and which can be used to make perfect-fittingv garments of Widely diierent styles. The inven- I tion consists principallyA in. apattern comprising parts that can be` moved relatively to cleach other toproduce di'ferent styles of garment all 'of which zvvilllitproperly'; it also t consists `in pattern and in the parts? and combinations and 'arrangements of parts hereinafter descrlbedjandclalmed. w

i :15 In the )accompanying drawing-s.A

` Fig.1 l is a top plannview of a pattern em-` loodying` my" invention shovvingthe manner in ivvhich" the pattern is originally laid ont Fig.12 is ahottom planvievv With the parts .20 lin fthejsame relative' ypositions las fin' Fig;- l,l A' showingthatlcertain of the-parts ofthe npattern are connected by Web-liliefmembers which are folded Linder `to give the desired i arrangement ofthe parts ofthe pattern:

liliggly` Fig."6 is a planviewfsliovving the parts of the pattern arrangeddifferently from Fig.`l g, Fig. 7 isasectional View on the line`7`7` of Fig. 6; Fig. 8 is a top arrangement of the `parts of `the pattern `oiE Fig. 8;

Fig.` l() is atop plan view showing a dif- V ferent arrangement;

Figs. 11 and l2 'are topplan views showing,

still different arrangement of `the parts-ot` `saidfirst part to the Waist line, V onecorn'er thereof being located at the `f1ilvlestpint 2 the pattern ;`V

Figs. land 14 are topplan vifeW-sshowing allowances toloe made in cutting thecoat or thanks; and

` Fig.` l5 is atop planview showing a slightly if `pattern the two Avedges extend." vert1callyalong the "middle line of the front. ofzthe individual.

zIn ,cutting certain?` garments; (seeyFigsg 2, '7 MI modifiedform of pattern.

' In making Womenswaistsand other`gar-- 50 ments; the principal difficulty :is `in makingl FignS is a sectional view on the linef-) of plan vievv showing anotherv 4 the fullest pointl2jof therloustand-thence'` i i Fig. 9 is a sectional view 'on the linea-9] they v front fof the 'garment lit, 'the back l being l comparatively easy'to fit;L 4The present invention deals With a pattern for the front of the f garment andv noA i pattern yfor `the back portionfis' shown, as this can he easily madef- The` pattern is made tothe measurements of an individual and diieren't garments are made byrearranging the portions of the' pattern and by adding accessory portions, if required. V

The "pattern ordinarily '-comf'irisesl partsi w' f'lhe'iirstu part Af e'xtendsiirom tliecenter j thence"alo'ngtlie`bust line to the'fnllestl point 65" .thence downwardlyon a uline fivhose e'zrtension would toiich the ullestrpo'int` of th'efbust l 2, thence along aV line 6 parallel to the'bnst Aline Vand along the line definingthe 1 'Jnpvvardly` to the point `oforigin.y Fig. lLis a sectional View on'the line` 4 4. f

` The third' part C `extends upwardly"fromY` the lhust-lilie ja 'shortv distance to a' point 7 ILinder the arm; thence along acurved line 8 defining the arm 'openings until -it' meets the .1.80 lower edge of part B at a point 9` about' four inches below the shoulders andthence along the 4lovveryedgeof `part B to the cornerKlO thereof, thence ,downwardly asa continua-f tion of the` side 45A of` partB `until it reachesg `along thebust line.- y The fourth part D t extends downwardly fr omsaid third part to the Waistline, its side edges bengfparalleland.@werner beingi disposed at the fu'llestpointofthelbustyand The fifth partEeXtends downvvardly from ofthebust. j O ne' edge* 'o f part a f continuation of i an` edge of part AV andlinthe: makingofwthe Y armhole;.1.75 Y

and 8) part A may be swung out of this position. The parts of the pattern are arranged in different ways in cutting out different garl'nents, but in each case parts A, C, D and E meet at one corner, this point being the fullest point of one bust.

Ordinarily the several parts of the pattern are made of fairly heavy paper or the like and parts A, C, D and E are secured together by web-like membersK of tapering form, made of tissue paper or other thin material whereby the parts of the pattern are held permanently together and properly positioned about the meeting point 2 and the parts may be opened out as desired to leave Y an opening or openings between parts of the pattern wherever required. 1

IVith the parts assembled as shown in Fig. 1, the connecting member between part A and parts B and C is opened out to leave a triangular space 11 or dart portion between part A extending from the bust line to the neck and parts B and C extending from the bust line to the shoulder, parts A. and E being disposed vertically. The other connecting members are folded under as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, so that no space is left between Vparts A and E, D and E or C and D. IVith the pattern arranged in this way, it permits the cutting of a waist with a dart on the shonlder,.with gathers, shirrings, smoeking or tucks on the shoulder.

As shown in Fig. 6, the portion of the pat- A tern extending from the neck downwardly is In Fig. 10, the parts D, C and B are swung around still further so as to eliminate the triangular opening 11. between parts A and parts B and C and make a large triangular opening 13 between parts D and E. This arrangement is used in cutting a garment with fullness at the waist line only.

In Fig. 11 part B is separated from part C and moved over against part A leaving a triangular opening 14 between parts Aand C and also an opening 15 between parts B and C. This arrangement is-used in cutting a. garment with fullness over -the bust and with a fitted shoulder. In order to permit the arrangement of parts shown in Fig. 11 parts B andl C can not be provided with a connecting member therebetween. However,

such arrangement is not generaux/.used and parts B and C may be made integral as shown in Fig. 15 being cut apart when needed.

In Fig. 12, a. triangular opening 16 is left between parts C and D. This arrangement is used in cutting a garment that is tight* fitting but has fullness under the arm.

Figs. 13 and 14 show the pattern used in Cutting out coats. In this case, eXtra material must be left, as shown by the dotted lines to permit for overlapping of the parts of the finished garment and also to give the desired length.

It will be understood that in Cutting out garments, due allowance must be made for enough material to make a seam, that accessory features may be added as desired, that the material will ordinarily be eut double, so as to make both the right and left sides of the garment front, that the length may be whatever is desired for the garment, that the skirt portion of the garment may be cut integral with the waist portion and that the back of the garment may be cut by any suitable pattern.

As previously stated, it is not ordinarily necessary to make parts B and C adjustable relative to each other; and Fig. 15 shows a pattern having a single piece B', C correspending to the parts B and C of Figs. 1 to 14. Said Fig. 15 likewise shows a single part A, D', E corresponding to parts A, D and E of said Figs. 1 to 14. Tapering connecting web members K are provided along the two sides of said part that are adjacent to said other part. In making most garments this simpler form of pattern provides sufiicient adjustments.

The above described pattern has numerous advantages. Being made according to an individuals measurments, it provides a perfectly fittinggarment, whereas patterns made accordingl to so-called standard sizes are not likely to fit a particular individual. In using the pattern, it is very easy to add accessory features to make the desired style of garment. However', in the case of ineXpert seamstresses, a pattern may be obtained for the accessory features and the body portions of such pattern corrected by the above pattern which was made for the individual. Likewise when readymade garments are purchased the above pattern affords an easy means of correcting the garment. Cases of misitting ordinarily centers about the neck and shoulder port-ions of the garment or about the bust; and by ripping open the garment and superimposing the pattern thereon, the incorrect features of the garment may be corrected.

Obviously the size and proportions of t-he parts l and 2 together and constituting, in''l' eifi'eca" single piece. Accordingly, lthe pat.-

` tern may be made with said parts 1 and 2 integral'and still be capable ofuse in making most garments. Other changes maybe made without departing from thevinvention and p I do not wish tobe limited to the precise construction shown. v

Whatlclaim is: ,i c l. A waist pattern comprising` at least three parts cornering on each other, the meeting `point representing the fullest` point of the 7 bust, said parts being permanently secured together by means permitting shifting thereof without changing said meetingpoint.

and to add another spacebetween other parts of the pattern.

8. A waist pattern made according to the measurements of an individual and having a plurality of taperingadjustable dartpori tions extending from the point indicating the bust.` A

Sgnedzat St', Louis, Missouri, this 23 day of March, 1929,` r f i 2. `i/kpattern comprising.parts'of relatively strong material cornering on eachother at the bust and pieces of relatively weak material securing said pieces of strong material together, said pieces of weakmaterial being pattern made i according :to the ing a plurality of part-s cornering on each Y other at thebust of the individuah'sai'd parts being made so that tapering spaces are leftV between parts, said parts being movable so astomaintain said cornering relationbut to change the size of said spaces.

. 4. A waistpatternmade according to the measurements otani'ndividual and compris-- ing'a `pluralityjof parts cornering on each.

., other at the bust of the individualysaid parts being madeso that atapering Vspaceis left between at lea'sttwo parts,` said Aparts being movable so asto maintain saidV cornering rei lation b-ut to change the sizeof said space.

" 5. Awaist' pattern made according to the measurements of an individual'and comprising a plurality of parts cornering` on each other at the bust of the individual, said parts `being made so that a tapering space is left between two of said parts, One'of said parts being movable so as to maintain said cornering relation butto change the size of said space andto make an additional space between said movable part and a third part.

`,6.YA Waist pattern,madeaccording to the measurements of ail-individual and comprisi ing a plurality oflparts cornering on each other atthe bust of the individual, said parts being made so that taperingspaces are left` `betweenparts, saidparts being movable so as to maintain said cornering relation but tol change the sizeot1 saidspaces.V

7.` A waist pattern made according` to the iineasurements of an individual and comprising a plurality of "parts cornering on each other at the bustof the individual, said parts Y being made sothat a tapering` space is left bei tween at least `two parts, said partsbeing movable so as to maintainsaid cornering re- 4lation but to change the sizeof lsaid space i HELEN HALL SMITH; f; 

